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One learned that the traditional Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of fiery, roughly ground spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if wooden, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves two people

14 ounces starchy potatoes, sliced into 4cm chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, diced into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
Two cloves of garlic, skinned and shredded
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
40ml mild oil
One red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
10g fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then drain them and let them dry from steam for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for five minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a rough rubble.

Tip into a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Skewer the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Stir all the ingredients for the dressing in a medium bowl. Heat the grill to its highest setting, then bake the sticks for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the sauce on the side for serving.